I’ve never boarded a plane, taxied away from the gate only to turn back before the runway, and then get off and go home. It’s incredible that due to some weather, I couldn’t get to my destination until two days after my scheduled flight. It’s even more incredible that I got screwed again on the way back.
Fortunately, I made it to Rome on the second try. My dad decided to come with me on standby but left a day earlier to ensure he would get back. There was no way I was ever going to check a bag, after going through that routine on my last trip to NCAAs in the fall of 2005. I dragged everything with me through the airports, planes, trains, and through the city to and from the hotel.
The flights over were fortunately uneventful, but both were full. I got stuck in the back by the galley on the Rome flight and it was a zoo the whole eight hours. The flight attendants were banging around and the flushing of the toilet sounded as if someone was opening a door to the air rushing by outside. A kid threw up in the aisle behind me, right next to one of the lavatories and another guy behind me broadcasted his side of a conversation to half the plane about touring Italy with a bunch of Latin language students. The guy across from me yakked it up with a flight attendant for quite awhile because he learned that the flight attendant was from Pittsburgh. With the uncomfortable seat thrown into the mix, I didn’t sleep well at all. My dad was lucky to get a seat up in the front, but didn’t seem to have a much better time.
The flight over was about on par with the Scotland trip: I did manage to sleep enough to be able to make it to the hotel before crashing. Also like the other European trips, the sun never did set completely. It was twilight for a few hours and then suddenly the sun popped up and blasted the left side of the plane.
When we arrived in the morning on Tuesday, there was a massive mob surging to get through the passport control. There was no organization at all and everyone pushed and shoved their way towards one of the agents. Giant, uncomfortable crowds seem to be characteristic of Rome.
Fortunately, the conference center and the hotel were within a few blocks from Termini Station, so my dad and I took an express train from the airport which dumped us out right where we needed to be. Google Maps said the hotel was right across the street from the train station, but the place was packed with people and buses and we wound up walking right past the hotel before turning around after several blocks. The hotel was hidden in a row of similar looking buildings without much of a sign. It was nice inside and it wasn’t long before we got a room and zonked out for a few hours.
Tuesday afternoon we left the hotel and walked the short distance to the conference center for SECON where I got my registration stuff and walked through the poster and demo session. There weren’t too many posters or demos, and many of the presenters were not there to show off their stuff. The poster and demo session at SenSys was much bigger. On the whole, the quality of work was much higher at SenSys, though there were a few things that stood out. A lot of presenters couldn’t come because of visa issues. I almost couldn’t make it either.
Following the poster session, my dad and I walked down Via Cavour to the Colosseum, past the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill as well as the Circus Maximus. It seems nobody cares about the Circus Maximus anymore — it’s a dirty, grassy field that people just walk around in. It’s the only thing I saw in my tour of the city that resembled a park. There were no other open spaces anywhere. All the tiny sidewalks were packed with tourists.
Because of the lack of open spaces, I didn’t run despite bringing my running shoes. We did a lot of walking, and there were a lot of steps due to the steep hills. It was the most walking I’ve done since the knee surgery and I’m not sure all of that was good for the knee. It’s popped a few times and felt a little weird since I’ve returned. The whole time, I only saw one guy running while going along a side street after we left the Circus Maximus. Sidewalks are only a few feet wide and packed with people everywhere, with intersections nearly every ten meters. Drivers are merciless and threaten to run anyone over. There was no way I was going to run in a place like that. I wouldn’t be able to go anywhere. Somehow, there were people that would just walk out in front of the attacking cars and miraculously make it across without being touched but I wasn’t even going to think about risking that. There were only a handful of cyclists, but I did notice that cars gave them plenty of room despite the fracas. Unsurprisingly, plenty of cars had side and quarter panel dents as well as paint transfers.
We walked past the Trevi Fountain and climbed the Spanish Steps, all of which were packed with tourists. There were just too many people at the places we went to make it really enjoyable. The entire city seemed to be one giant tourist trap, with throngs of tourists packing the streets and all the major monuments and museums. Oddly, many of the places we went to did not take credit cards, and had signs announcing this. I remember it wasn’t but five years ago when it was like that at home and now I take it for granted. We went through quite a bit of cash.
My dad and I looked up a restaurant in the Rome guide we had and managed to find our way there for dinner. I had pasta with bolognese sauce, which tasted nothing like the dish of the same name at home. At home bolognese usually means ground beef, but this was more like sausage, bacon, or something cured. It was different and definitely better than what I would find at home. I also had this massive mug of Italian beer that made it a bit tough walking back.
The hotel included breakfast as part of the deal and it was far superior to anything I would find at a standard American hotel. The hotel staff were extremely nice and when I couldn’t get their Internet connection to work with my laptop, asked me several times if I wanted to try it again or get help. The wait staff at restaurants were always wearing uniforms, and as my dad said, waiting tables in Rome seems to be a serious profession. There weren’t any sloppy teenagers with surly attitudes. The hotels and restaurants were an example of service done right and were a stark contrast to the approach taken in the United States.
Following breakfast on Wednesday, I went over to the conference with my dad and we sat through a panel session on the direction of wireless sensor networks. Everyone desperately wants wireless sensor networks to be more integrated with the rest of the computing world. People want IP stacks on motes, Java on motes, and applications to extend the social networking craze. I’ve seen several panel discussions and talks on this, but not much has actually happened yet. The powers that be are asking for papers in this area, but not much has been produced. The argument is that sensor network research is maturing and now it is ready for prime time. Tighter integration with existing systems through decoupling and modularization will allow this to happen.
Following the panel session, it was time for my session on routing. I watched three other presentations before it was my turn. Though the session chair wanted me to use another computer, my presentation worked fine. I didn’t screw up and I thought I did much better than the practice runs. I got some good questions and talked to several people afterwards about my paper. A few people weren’t familiar with the zone-based forwarding approach, so I explained it afterwards.
In the afternoon on Wednesday, we took the Metro to the Vatican and stood in a massive line to walk through St. Peter’s Basillica. I found it interesting that people in line for over an hour were turned away because they were wearing shorts. We also went into the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. St. Peter’s was massive inside, and really made me feel tiny. Despite how big everything was, there were almost too many people to really appreciate it. We headed back towards the hotel, walking over the Tiber and past the Pantheon, another monument mobbed by tourists.
Every single monument or attraction in Rome is completely surrounded by buildings. You just walk through a narrow alley and out pops an obelisk. There are no skyscrapers; all the buildings seem to be made of adobe and aren’t more than a few stories high. Just about everything is covered in soot and dirt.
Wednesday night, we found a restaurant near the hotel and ate dinner, another pasta dish that was very good. There was also a coffeehouse that was recommended in the guide, so we stopped there too. Drip coffee doesn’t seem to exist in Italy or Europe, instead everyone drinks espresso or cappuccino. Apparently, cafe americano is seen as crap, and you will get laughed at if you order it. The coffee I had in Rome was good, but espresso is almost like drinking liquefied beans. I like coffee strong and black, but that was overload. I’m sure I could get used to it, but I’ve never understood the enjoyment of shots, be it coffee or alcohol.
Everyone we interacted with, from hotel and wait staff to people on the street seemed to know we were Americans. This, despite me wearing loafers, slacks, and button down shirts. It’s like we had targets painted on us. At a grocery store, the cashier addressed everyone in front of me in Italian. When it was my turn to pay, she spoke to me in English before I said a word. I also made a fool out of myself since I didn’t know I had to weigh the banana and print out a tag with its price on it. An irritated line of Italian teenagers formed behind me as the cashier went to the back and weighed the banana.
On Thursday two women tried to pickpocket me as I walked towards the conference center. One grabbed my arm while the other waved something in my face, so I shoved my hands in my pockets, walked faster, and broke free. It reminds me of something I read in one of Robert Ludlum’s books: when attacked without warning, “reach for your weapon, not the wound.” Don’t fall victim to the distractions and protect what’s important.
My dad left for the airport Thursday morning and I spent the rest of the day at the conference. The most interesting paper was on detecting complex events by converting a timeseries of sensor readings to a string and performing string matching with training data. One guy from UVA gave a presentation and we talked for awhile afterwards. By the end of the day, with several shots of espresso during the breaks, I was beat. I never really got over the jet lag and didn’t sleep very well. The jet lag did not set me up well for the return trip, which became almost as much a disaster on the way out, but I’ll leave that for the next post.
Fortunately the weather held up well: it was cool in the mornings and got hot in the late afternoons, cooling down again as the sun set. The climate was much like central California, or Sacramento.
Overall, it was an interesting trip, but I don’t think I would go to Rome again. It was like Colonial Williamsburg, but with many more tourists. I’m sure there are plenty of less touristy and other interesting places in Italy that would be worth visiting if I was there for more than three days.
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